Sabang, Indonesia

Sabang

Sabang is a city in Aceh province–– a small island off of the most Northwestern point of Indonesia (Sumatra), marked with a monument appropriately named: Monument KM 0.

It was the day after Ramadan when we arrived in Sabang. The Muslims who dominate this region had been fasting and it was the morning of celebration so nothing was going to be open.

The port of Sabang is remote where the steep sides of this island fall sharply to the sea, leaving only a footpath of streets, lined with colorful homes and mosques. We wish we could have seen this port when all the businesses were opened. The people are charming, friendly and have smiles more radiant than any jewelry piece can shine.

This rustic port town seems new to tourism, yet the pier looks a bit long in the tooth, so I can’t quite figure out if it was at one point popular and fell from grace or never really got started. I wish we had more time to explore this region. What we did see of the coastal town seemed well lived in and tourism was an anomaly.

I imagine the diving here is impressive, but I would be careful to observe the local equipment, like any remote island nation–making sure the petrol compressor exhaust is not near the intake that fills the dive tanks. Carbon monoxide is tasteless and one would never feel the burn before passing out under water.

Crystal Serenity was the second cruise ship this year to visit this tiny region and will be one of three for the year. We were as much of an excursion for the people of Sabang as they were to us.

There was a squad of police who arrived on the pier to get a group picture of the Serenity in the background as we were taking their picture from our deck.

After we left the ship and made our way along this costal town, we were soon to realize we were celebrities. Everyone waved to us from their motor-bikes and it was not uncommon to see three of four family members on a single bike, all of them in their formal dress coming from the morning prayers.

The children loved to high-five us and say hello, but you could tell there were a couple of smart Alecs in the crowd that no matter what language is being spoken, you get the gist of it.

Here is an interesting fact that was first brought to our attention by a friend onboard (John) who pointed out that while he was in Singapore and in the underground he could not help but notice there were these unique floor tiles with slightly raised ribs strung along the tunnels and leading to key points where the train doors would stop.

John is perceptive and told us that these unique tiles are aids for the sightless, where the raised ribs are akin to a blaze along a hiking trail–– where a cane or wheelchair can feel the raised tiles. We noticed these same tiles embedded in the sidewalks in Sabang, but oddly the sidewalks here are quite difficult and challenging for anyone, let alone sightless.

Along our walk we stumbled upon a Buddhist Temple and nearby was a Chinese couple who seemed to be looking after it as they sat outside their home, under a tree, and waved as we walked by. We took the side street by their home that led down to the water where a boardwalk–– not very long–– led to a square with a tower at the center overlooking the port. There were a lot of shops (closed) and a coffee house (closed) that looked intriguing. About the only thing we could do was climb a tower.. well the only thing I opted to do, while Meredith sat down by the water.

There were about 240 steps to this tower, where the staircase wobbled with just me on it. However, reaching the top gave a beautiful view of the bay and surrounding hillside. When I reached the top it was as if my ascent had triggered all the mosques along the hillside to begin the Iman chanting (singing).

It was so spiritual up there by myself, overlooking the hills and harbor, that I brought up the compass on my watch, faced East towards Mecca, opened my palms upward at my sides and bowed in rhythm to the singing, hoping not to offend anyone below.

When I reached the top, the Imahns from the mosques began to chant and their voices filled the still air, blanketing the hillsides. It was beautiful.

Whereever we travel, I take note of the graffiti. In some places is does not belong and in others it is artwork as good as any masterpiece. I have started a wall of them in our home and might need to add these to it. I did not expect to see any graffiti in a small port like this, but what I did see was beautiful. I also discovered an abandoned alien spacecraft in a nearby lot.

And to end all days as they should– the dress . We had a Farewell To Asia Celebration, encouraging the passengers to dress in any clothes purchased in Asia.

4 comments

  1. Sounds like you may have felt like a true explorer, with out other ships in dockage and 3-5 thousand tourist crowing the shops.

    In the end it will be interesting what locations you would have on your list to return.

    Like your casual attire both of you look very Asian clothed. Meredith wins with the slacks (?) sorry Dave

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